Our Marine Store located on the Old Parham Road is fully stocked to keep your boats looking new and going strong
We stock a full line of Accessories, Boating Gear, Safety Gear, Marine Hardware, Trailers, Marine Engines, Cleaning Products and the list goes on, if we don’t have it we’ll get it.

Added are your Electronics equipment from Raymarine and Garmin, Boat lifts, Golf Carts and Parts, ATV’s Side by Sides, Jet Skis by Seadoo and lots more to make you enjoy Paradise. Email your request to [email protected] We can deliver anywhere in the Caribbean

Canvas Care & Maintenance

Brush the canvas with a soft-bristled brush and hose down at regular intervals to remove dust and dirt particles. It may be washed in a mild solution of Lux, Ivory Flakes, or Borateem in lukewarm water (no more than 100 F). Rinse thoroughly to remove soap. Do not use detergents.

For more stubborn cases, soak the canvas in a solution of 1/2 cup (4 oz.) Clorox, 1/2 cup (4 oz.) Ivory Flakes and one gallon warm water for about 20 minutes. Rinse with cold water to remove all soap. NOTE: This method may remove part of the water repellence, so apply a water repellent treatment as necessary.

The canvas may also be washed in an automatic washer on the “cold” cycle using 2 cups (16 oz.) Clorox and 1 cup (8 oz.) Ivory Flakes. DO NOT DRY IN A DRYER – ALLOW CANVAS TO LINE DRY ONLY. The fabric is 100% acrylic and it will shrink. Canvas may be dry cleaned, but a water repellent treatment will be necessary.

Canvas Storage

Do not fold or crease any of the clear vinyl panels, as cracking will result. Do not fold or store any canvas while wet. All canvas should be rolled or folded when dry and stored in a clean, dry area.

Trailering with Canvas

You may trailer your boat with either cockpit cover or tonneau cover installed; however, the mooring cover must be installed over the boat with tie-down straps secure. The convertible top, side curtains and camper aft cover must be removed when trailering. Damage will occur to canvas and bows or boat if attached to boat while trailering.

Fiberglass/Gel Coat Care & Refinishing

Molded fiberglass with a gel coated exterior finish makes up the structure of the hull, deck and some interior parts of your Sea Ray. The Gel Coat is the outer surface, often colored, that presents the shiny, smooth appearance which is associated with fiberglass products. In some areas, this Gel Coat surface is painted or taped for styling purposes.

Wash the fiberglass regularly with clean, fresh water. Wax Gel Coated surfaces to maintain the luster. In northern climates, a semiannual waxing may suffice for the season. In southern climates, a quarterly application of wax will be required for adequate protection.

WARNING!: Gel Coat surfaces are slippery when wet. Use extreme care when walking on wet Gel Coat.

Recommended waxes are: 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #05990 or Meguiars #26 Hiteck Yellow Wax.

If the Gel Coated surface gloss cannot be restored by waxing, power buff with a rubbing compound such as 3M Super Duty #05955, followed with 3M Finesse-It 2 #05928, then wax.

WARNING!: Care should be utilized in waxing commonly walked-upon areas of the boat to ensure that they are not dangerously slippery.

An alternate method is to use Meguiars #44 Heavy Duty Color Restorer followed with Meguiars #50 Boat Cleaner/Polish, then wax.

Recommended waxes are: 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #05990 or Meguiars #26 Hiteck Yellow Wax.

If Gel Coat is not maintained and becomes heavily oxidized, light sanding may be required before buffing.

Fiberglass/Gel Coat Stains & Scratches

Gel Coat and painted surfaces are very resistant to deep stains. Common surface stains can be removed with diluted household detergents, providing these detergents do not contain ammonia or chlorine. Porcelain-cleaning powders are too abrasive and often contain chlorine and ammonia, either of which would permanently discolor the Gel Coat and paint. Alcohol or kerosene can be used for difficult stains but should be washed away promptly with a mild detergent and water. Never use acetone or ketone solvents.

Minor scratches and deeper stains which do not penetrate the Gel Coat may be removed by light sanding and buffing.

Fiberglass/Gel Coat, Special Care For Boats That Are Moored

If permanently moored in salt water or fresh water, your boat will collect marine growth on its bottom. This will detract from the boat’s beauty and greatly affect its performance. There are two methods of preventing this:

1. Periodically haul the boat out of the water and scrub the bottom with a bristle brush and a solution of soap and water.
2. Paint the hull below the waterline with a good grade of antifouling paint. DO NOT paint the engine drive surfaces.

NOTE: There are EPA regulations regarding bottom paint application. Consult your Sea Ray dealer for proper application methods.

Bottom Paint Care

From time to time a slight algae or slime forms on all vessels. The bottom painted portion of the hull can be wiped off with a coarse Turkish towel or a piece of old rug while the boat is in the water. Do not use a stiff or abrasive material to clean the bottom paint.

The bottom paint should be inspected annually. If it needs repainting, flush the old paint and wash with hot water and laundry detergent. Rinse well and let surface dry completely. Feather any deep scratches with sandpaper and repaint, following the directions on the bottom paint label. Replacement coating can be ordered from your Sea Ray dealer.

Fiberglass hulls should never be hauled, painted and relaunched the same day, since this does not allow sufficient time for the moisture which has been absorbed into the old paint film to completely dry out. Generally, 24 to 36 hours of drying time is required.

Bilge/Engine Compartment

1. Pump the bilge dry and remove all loose dirt. Be sure that all limber holes are open. If there is oil in the bilge and the source is not known, look for leaks in engine oil lines or engine gaskets. Oil stains can be removed by using a bilge cleaner available from your dealer or a marina. DO NOT use flammable solvents.
2. Check all wiring to be sure it is properly supported, that its insulation is intact, and that there are no loose or corroded terminals. If there are corroded terminals, they should be replaced or thoroughly cleaned. Tighten all terminals securely and spray them with light marine preservative oil.
3. Inspect the entire fuel system (including fill lines and vents) for any evidence of leakage. Any stains around joints could indicate a leak. Try a wrench on all fittings to be sure they are not loose, but do not over-tighten them. Clean fuel filters and vent screen.
4. Inspect the entire bottom for evidence of seepage, damage or deterioration, paying particular attention to hull fittings, hoses and clamps. Straighten kinked hoses and replace any that do not feel pliable. Tighten loose hose clamps and replace those that are corroded. Tighten any loose nuts, bolts or screws.
5. Refer to your engine operator’s manual for engine maintenance details. Wipe off engines to remove accumulated dust and grease. If a solvent is used, make sure it is nonflammable. Go over the entire engine and tighten nuts, bolts and screws. Inspect the wiring on the engine and clean and tighten the terminals. Inspect the belts and tighten them if needed. Clean and lubricate the battery terminals; fill the battery cells with distilled water as needed.

Topside Areas

1. Check grab rails for loose screws, breaks, sharp edges, etc., that might be hazardous in rough weather. Inventory and inspect life jackets for tears and deterioration. Check your first aid kit to make sure it is complete. Check the signaling equipment. Inspect anchor, mooring and towing lines and repair or replace as required. DO NOT stow wet lines or they may mildew and rot.
2. Stainless steel and alloy fittings should be cleaned with soap and water or household glass cleaner. Remove rust spots as soon as possible with a brass, silver or chrome cleaner. Irreversible pitting will develop under rust that remains for any period of time. Never use an abrasive like sandpaper or steel wool on stainless. These may actually cause rust. To help protect the stainless we recommend the use of a good car wax.
3. When instruments are exposed to a saltwater environment, salt crystals may form on the bezel and the plastic covers. These salt crystals should be removed with a soft, damp cloth; never use abrasives or rough, dirty cloths to wipe plastic parts. Mild household detergents or plastic cleaners can be used to keep the instruments bright and clean.

Plexiglas

Never use a dry cloth or duster, or glass cleaning solutions, on Plexiglas.

To clean Plexiglas, first flood it with water to wash off as much dirt as possible. Next, use your bare hand, with plenty of water, to feel and dislodge any caked dirt or mud. A soft, grit-free cloth may then be used with a nonabrasive soap or detergent. A soft sponge, kept clean for this purpose, is excellent. Blot dry with a clean, damp chamois.

Grease and oil may be removed from Plexiglas with kerosene, hexane, white (not aviation or ethyl) gasoline or aliphatic naphtha (no aromatic content).

Do not use solvents such as acetone, silicone spray, benzine, carbon tetrachloride, fire extinguisher fluid, dry cleaning fluid or lacquer thinner on Plexiglas, since they attack the surface.

Remove fine scratches with fine automotive acrylic rubbing and polishing compounds.

Teak

Teak does not require refinishing but should be cleaned occasionally with a teak cleaner, obtainable at marine supply stores. Do not use steel wool in cleaning teak; it leaves rust specks. Bronze wool is available and should be used. Several penetrating protective coatings are available for treating teak and their use is considered advantageous. Because some cleaners can damage Gel Coats and aluminum, always read the directions before using any cleaner.

Upholsteries 

Exterior fabrics should be cleaned with a sponge or very soft scrub-brush and a mild soap and warm water solution. Rinse after scrubbing with plenty of cold, clean water and allow the fabric to air dry in a well-ventilated area, preferably away from direct sunlight.

Mildew can occur if your boat does not have adequate ventilation. Heat alone will not prevent mildew; you must also provide fresh air circulation.

Electrolysis & Zinc Anodes

Electrolysis corrosion of underwater metals on power boats can result in serious deterioration. The boat owner must be aware of the possibilities of galvanic action (the deterioration of underwater metals due to dissimilar characteristics when placed in salt water) and/or electrolysis. It is the owner’s responsibility to check for and replace damaged parts due to galvanic deterioration. Refer to your Sea Ray dealer to investigate the source of stray corrosive currents.

Inboard/outboard and outboard engines are fitted with zinc anodes on their lower units (refer to the engine operator’s manual for their locations). If your boat is equipped with trim planes (tabs), zinc plates are installed on the trim planes (tabs). Zinc protects underwater hardware. Zinc, being much less “noble” than copper-based alloys and aluminum used in Sea Ray underwater fittings, will deteriorate first and protect the more noble parts.

Zinc anodes generally require replacement about once a year. In salt water areas, replace every six months. The need to replace anodes more frequently may indicate a stray-current problem within the boat or at the slip or mooring. If zinc anodes do not need replacing after one year, they may not be providing proper protection. Loose anodes or low-grade zinc may be the problem.

NOTICE: Do not paint between the zinc and metal it contacts, and do not paint over the zinc.

Battery Maintenance

Check the fluid level in the battery cells approximately every 4 weeks, and more often in summer and hot zones.

The fluid level must be between the lower and the upper markings.

Only replenish with distilled water. Do not use metal funnels.

Coat battery terminal clamps with silicone grease. Keep battery clean and dry.

Only use a battery charger designed to charge automotive/marine batteries when batteries are disconnected from the boat’s electrical circuit.

CAUTION!: While the engine is running, the battery terminal clamps must not be loosened or detached nor should the battery switch(es) be turned off; otherwise, the alternator and other electronic units will be damaged.

DANGER!: Never use an open flame in the battery storage area. Avoid striking sparks near the battery. A battery will explode if a flame or spark ignites the free hydrogen given off during charging.

Fuel Recommendations

The quality of the fuel is very important for satisfactory engine performance and long engine life. Fuel should be clean and free of contamination. Your fuel tanks should be kept full of fuel whenever possible. This will reduce the amount of water condensation and reduce the possibility of contamination.

CAUTION!: Use of improper gasoline can damage your engine seriously.

NOTICE!: The use of any good-grade unleaded regular or premium gasoline with a minimum posted octane rating [(A.K.I.) Anti-Knock Index] of 87 is satisfactory for use in gasoline marine engines. In areas where unleaded regular or premium gasoline are not available, a good-grade leaded regular with a minimum posted octane rating (A.K.I.) of 89 may be used. However, gasolines containing alcohol, either methyl alcohol (methanol) or ethyl alcohol (ethanol), may cause increased:

1. Corrosion of metal parts.
2. Deterioration of rubber and plastic parts.
3. Fuel permeation through flexible fuel lines.
4. Wear and damage of internal engine parts.
5. Starting and operating difficulties.

AVOID USING FUELS WITH ALCOHOL ADDITIVES

Some of these adverse effects are due to the tendency of gasolines containing alcohol to absorb moisture from the air, resulting in a phase of water alcohol separating from the gasoline in the fuel tank. The adverse effects of alcohol are more severe with methyl alcohol (methanol) and are worse with increasing alcohol content.

NOTICE!: ALWAYS FOLLOW THE FUELING PRECAUTIONS AND SAFEGUARDS FOUND IN YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL.

Parts, Accessories and Service

Sea Ray Parts and Accessories are available only through a Sea Ray dealer. When contacting a Sea Ray dealer regarding replacement parts, accessories, or service, please have all pertinent information such as serial numbers, model numbers, etc. on hand.

Sea Ray Boats, Inc. has a permanent record of your boat, which is retained under its “Hull Identification Number.” Data is kept regarding equipment and accessories, as well as dealer/shipping information.

The “Hull Identification Number” (HIN), located on the starboard side of the transom, is the most important identifying factor and must be included in all correspondence and orders. Failure to include this information may cause shipment or service delays.

Propellers

Your Sea Ray has been equipped with propellers which our tests have shown to be the best suited for general use under normal conditions and load. In some situations you may wish to change propellers to give your boat slightly different performance characteristics. In general, changing to a lower pitch propeller will increase acceleration and load-pulling ability, but with a slight decrease in top speed. Conversely, moving to a higher pitch propeller will attain higher top speed with a light load, but will sacrifice acceleration and power. Your particular requirements should be discussed with your Sea Ray dealer. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE A PROPELLER WHICH ALLOWS THE ENGINE TO OPERATE AT HIGHER THAN RECOMMENDED RPM.

Basic Propeller Characteristics

Propellers have two basic characteristics: diameter and pitch. Diameter is the distance in inches measured across the propeller hub line from the outer edge of the 360 that is made by the propeller’s blades during rotation. Pitch is the distance in inches that a propeller will travel if rotated one revolution without any slippage.

For example, a propeller with a 12-inch pitch, when rotated 360 would, theoretically, advance 12 inches through the water. No 12-inch pitch blade will, in a single rotation, advance a boat 12 inches. This variance is referred to as slippage.

When describing a propeller both the diameter and pitch are given. The diameter is referenced first and the pitch is second. Therefore, a 14″ x 19″ propeller would have a 14-inch diameter and a 19-inch blade pitch.

Propeller Ventilation, Its Causes and Corrections

While often called “cavitation,” ventilation is really a different effect. At times when a boat enters or leaves a sharp turn, the propeller seems to slip and lose thrust and the engine may overspeed. This problem is normally caused by air or aerated water entering the propeller. (A damaged propeller can also cause ventilation.) Ventilation can usually be corrected by one or more of the following:

1. Replace the damaged or incorrect propeller with the recommended one.
2. Set the outdrive at a lesser trim angle (trim the unit downward).

Propeller Cavitation, Its Causes and Corrections

Cavitation is a phenomenon that occurs in all propeller-driven craft under certain conditions. The surface of propeller blades is not perfectly flat, and as water is drawn through the blades to be discharged aft into the propeller’s slip stream, the water flowing over the curved surface of the blade encounters areas of greater and less pressure.

In those areas of reduced pressure, air bubbles are formed. When they move out of the low pressure area these bubbles collapse. If they collapse while in contact with an object, such as part of the propeller blade or a trim plane, the bubbles create such highly localized forces that they erode the surface of the object. In the case of the propeller, such damage is sometimes called a “burn.” It may be caused by an irregularity in the propeller’s leading edge, and should be corrected by reconditioning the propeller or by replacement.

Cavitation is a normal occurrence in modern boats and prop inspection should be part of routine maintenance.

Propeller Torque and Its Correction

Some of the more powerful motors create a considerable torque effect; that is, a twisting motion causing the boat to ride with one sheer lower than the other. This twisting reaction is caused by the direction of propeller rotation lifting one side of the boat. This causes uneven drag, so that the boat’s bow may tend to fall off in one direction or the other from the intended course given by the wheel.

Stern drive units are equipped with an adjustable trim tab which may be adjusted to balance “steering torque” so that the steering wheel will turn with equal ease in each direction. Follow the trim plane adjustment instructions in the Engine Owner’s Manual.

Torque action may occur when maximum or close-to-maximum rated horsepower is applied. Any slight torque may be offset by shifting passenger or gear weight laterally to the high side of the boat.

Propeller Damage

Propellers should be free of nicks, excessive pitting and any distortions that alter propellers from their original design. A badly damaged propeller should be replaced, but those that are chipped, bent or merely knocked out of shape can be reconditioned by your marine dealer.

When doing extensive cruising, it is advisable to carry an extra propeller aboard.

Operating your boat with a damaged propeller will reduce its top speed, may introduce undesirable handling characteristics and will definitely increase fuel consumption. A damaged propeller may also create unpleasant vibrations leading to an increased sound level. These excessive vibrations will hasten wear to rotating and reciprocating engine components and may cause costly damage.

Service Guide

NOTE: The Service Guide is based on average operating conditions. Under severe operating conditions, intervals should be shortened. Operation in salt water is considered severe operating conditions. Equipment listed to service may not be standard or even available as options on all Sea Ray boats. REFER TO YOUR ENGINE OPERATOR’S MANUAL FOR DETAILS.